Lobster Rolls & Cape Cod
A last bite of summer full of lobster, lobster and, oh yeah, some seaside views.
We spent a few days in Cape Cod last week, surprisingly my first visit to this in-demand East Coast locale. Although the weather has turned decidedly chilly and many establishments shuttered their doors shockingly early in lieu of the drop in visitors after Labor Day (don’t plan for any late night eating), it was easy to understand the charm of this seaside getaway. Driving on curvy back roads, you’ll stumble upon one must-see stop after the other — Marion’s pie shop (try the mini blueberry-crumble), the picturesque and remote South Beach in Chatham, and the kitchy Bird Watcher’s General Store in Orleans are all worth a visit — but just walking through the tiny streets amongst salty air-worn bungalows makes for an enjoyable day.

Other than a weekend of relaxing beachside strolls and sightseeing, the area provides for a pretty simple mission: lobster rolls. Harwich Port’s Brax Landing offers the makings of a massive lunch; sit on the bayside patio (the perfect setting even on a chillier afternoon) and share the enormous sandwich, as well as a bowl of the ultra-rich lobster bisque. Make sure to visit to the classic Cape Cod town of Chatham, complete with whitewashed fences, preppy boutiques and Topsider-wearing tourists, and you’ll find Nickerson’s Fish & Lobsters, a tiny operation hidden on a fishing dock. It’s a great place to pick up grub (especially their delicious toasted lobster rolls) before you head out to South Beach, a pristine area popular with both bird watchers and dedicated fishermen, that can only be reached by boat. And the roadside Arnold’s Lobster & Clam Bar in Eastham deserves a stop along your route, for its eclectic diner-style charm and the raved about fried lobster tail dinner.
When you’re ready for a break from lobster, head to the town of Wellfleet, home to the eponymous oyster. You’ll find some of the most inventive fare in the Cape Cod area at the Wicked Oyster, along with a variety of creative cocktails and a decent wine list. For a more casual affair, head to Mac’s Shack and shuck a few oysters yourself. And when you’re feeling a bit stuffed, just head out for another oceanside walk; that salty breeze is guaranteed to get your stomach growling again.






