Tart green apples and aromatic fennel make for a simple, refreshing salad.

With the dog days of summer in full gear, sometime it’s just too hot to turn on the oven. Instead make use of the last of spring’s fennel — the vegetable’s faint licorice flavor is sure to offer a cool reprieve to the heat. Thinly sliced, it’s a wonderful addition to a Waldorf-like salad: combine tart green apple slices, toasted walnuts and this creamy vinaigrette and top with the fragrant fennel fronds. It’s great alone, on top of fresh leafy greens or thinly sliced into a coleslaw for summer’s favorite lunch, a pulled pork sandwich.

Shaved Apple & Fennel Salad, serves four
½ cup walnuts, roughly chopped
1 large green apple
1large fennel bulb with stalks and fronds attached
½ lemon
¼ cup champagne vinegar
2 tablespoons honey
¼ cup olive oil
Salt and pepper, to taste

1. Set the oven to 300 degrees Fahrenheit. Place the walnuts on a small sheet tray, and bake for 5-10 minutes, until toasted to a rich golden brown color. Set aside to cool.

2. Slice the stalks off the fennel bulb and set bulb aside. Pick the fennel fronds(leaves) from the stalks and reserve.

3. Fill a medium-sized bowl with cool water, squeeze the lemon into it and place the lemon in the water. Using a sharp knife or mandolin, thinly slice the apple (julienne into matchstick-sized pieces if you prefer a slaw) and put into water to reduce oxidation. Repeat with the fennel. Set aside.

4. In a small bowl, whisk together the honey and vinegar. Season generously with salt and fresh pepper and slowly pour in the oil, whisking constantly to create a creamy emulsion. Drain the apples and fennel and toss with the vinaigrette. Add in the fennel fronds and walnuts, toss and serve.

Bright and herby, this salsa is a summer must.

The Italian version of green salsa, this blend of herbs, spicy peppers and briny capers is the perfect summer sauce. It pairs wonderfully with any grilled or sauteed fish or meat, can be tossed into an easy summer pasta or potato salad, and makes a great dip for crudité or toasted flat bread.

Unlike the spicier Mexican version of roasted tomatillo and chili, this salsa verde brings a spoonful of fresh herbs and tanginess to any plate. Although the traditional recipe calls for mint, flat-leaf parsley and cilantro, feel free to use the Italian “green sauce” as an herb catchall — chives, curly parsley, fennel fronds (leaves) and even tarragon make great additions. Include the anchovies for a pungent kick, or try diced sun-dried tomatoes or smoked chillies to play around with more subtle flavors. Make sure to chop the herbs with a sharp knife — as tempting as it may be, don’t use the food processor for the herbs, as the blade and motion will cause them to wilt and you can easily over-process them into a pureed mush.

Salsa Verde makes 1 1/2 cups, adapted from Bon Appetit June 2011
6 oil-packed anchovy fillets, chopped (optional)
2 garlic cloves
2 tbsp capers, rinsed and chopped
1 red or green jalapeño, stemmed, seeded, minced
4 cups loosely packed fresh flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped
2 cups loosely packed fresh mint leaves, finely chopped
1 cup loosely packed fresh cilantro leaves, finely chopped
1 cup plus 2 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
2 tbsp lemon juice
1 tbsp lemon zest
Kosher salt, to taste

1. Combine garlic and capers in a food processor or mortar until a chunky paste forms. In a medium size bowl, combine with herbs. Wisk in the oil to create a sauce, stir in lemon juice and zest and season to taste with salt. Let stand at room temperature for 30 minutes to develop flavors. Store covered and chilled up to one week.

This quick and easy homemade version beats anything you can buy at the store.

For a simple, refreshing snack, this Mediterranean classic is quickly becoming my go-to favorite. It’s great to bring along for picnics and barbecues, or just to have as an afternoon treat. And because chickpeas are packed full of protein and fiber, and olive oil is full of the good-for-you fats, hummus is actually a pretty healthy snack. For added flavor, use this recipe as a base and toss in whatever extras you want — try sun dried tomatoes, chopped spinach, or pesto. Plus, the extra tahini, which can be found at most high end grocery stores as well as ethnic markets, is a great base for a whole slew of dips. Combined with romesco it makes a creamy, but light spread for sandwiches and can give tuna fish salad an earthy, garlicky tang. For an extra special treat, make your own flat bread. This fail-safe dough is a great addition to a party and freezes wonderfully so you’ll always have a few slices on hand!

Hummus
2 garlic cloves
2 tsp salt
1/2 tsp cumin
1 16-oz. can chick peas, drained and rinsed
2 tbsp cup tahini
2tbsp cup lemon juice
1/8 cup water
1/4 cup olive oil
fresh parsley
paprika

1. Place the garlic, salt, cumin, chickpeas, tahini, lemon juice and water in a small food processor and blend until combined but not smooth. Add in half the oil and blend until thoroughly mixed, then add the rest of the oil and blend until hummus is at desired consistency. Season to taste with salt. Roughly chop parsley springs and use for garnish. Sprinkle with paprika.

Flat bread, adapted from Bon Appetit June 2011
1 ¼-oz package of active dry yeast
1 Tbsp olive oil, plus ½ cup for cooking
5 cups all purpose flour
1 tbsp kosher salt
Maldon salt

1. Pour two cups of warm water (105 – 115 degrees Fahrenheit) into the bowl of a stand mixer. Sprinkle in yeast and let sit until the yeast dissolves, around 10 minutes. The mixture should start to foam (if this doesn’t occur, start over). Add in the 1 tbsp olive oil, and then add 5 cups of flour and the kosher salt. Beat using the paddle attachment until the dough forms, about one minute.

2. Turn dough out onto a floured work surface and knead until smooth, about five minutes, adding more flour if necessary to create a smooth but slightly tacky dough. Place dough in a large, lightly oiled bowl; turn to coat. Cover with plastic wrap and set in a warm place until the dough doubles in volume, about one hour.

3. After dough has doubled, transfer to a floured work surface and divide into eight equal pieces. Roll these into balls and place on floured sheet trays. Cover with a kitchen towel and let the dough rest for 15 minutes.

4. Heat the oven to 450 degrees Fahrenheit. Use the extra oil to lightly brush two sheet trays. Roll one ball at a time out into ¼-inch thickness and place on sheet trays. Flip, sprinkle with maldon salt, and bake for four minutes. Remove from oven, flip, sprinkle with maldon and bake again for three to four minutes, until golden brown. Continue with remaining dough, adding additional oil to trays as needed.

5. Adversely, bread can also be cooked on a grill. Heat grill to medium high, and roll dough out as above. Place on oiled sheet tray, season, and flip. Brush grill rack with oil and place flatbread down on rack. Cook until lightly charred and cooked through, about one to two minutes per side.

6. Slice bread into wedges and enjoy warm with hummus. Bread will keep, in a sealed container for up to four days. Refresh in a toaster oven as needed.

With a burst of fresh fruit, this not-too-sweet crumb cake is the perfect treat for a summer picnic.

Have I mentioned my recent obsession with rhubarb? I couldn’t resist buying another bunch at the market this week, and as Chicago finally heated up on Sunday I pulled this strawberry and rhubarb crumb cake out of the oven — the perfect dessert to bring along for a weekend picnic in the park. Sour cream gives the cake an extra moist crumb, while a combination of strawberries and rhubarb make a sweet, tart filling. And for an extra-easy dessert, double the crumble recipe and store half in the freezer. Bake off as needed, toss with sauteed berries, peaches or plums, and top with whipped cream. Enjoy!

Strawberry and Rhubarb Crumb Cake, makes one 9-inch cake, Modified from Marthastewart.com
For the cake:
2 tbsp vegetable oil, plus more for the pan
1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour, plus more for the pan
1/2 cup granulated sugar
2 1/2 tsp baking powder
1/2 tsp salt
1 egg
1/2 cup sour cream
3/4 cup milk
2 tsp vanilla
1 cup strawberries, quartered
1 cup rhubarb, sliced into 1/2-inch pieces
For the crumble:
1 1/4 cup flour
1 cup confectioner’s sugar
2 tsp cinnamon
2 sticks, or 8 oz, butter, cut into 1/2-inch cubes and chilled

1. Preheat the oven to 325 degrees Fahrenheit. Lightly brush a 9-inch pan with oil, dust with flour, and set aside. In a medium bowl, sift the 1 1/2 cups flour, granulated sugar, baking powder and salt together. In a separate bowl combine the egg, oil, sour cream, milk and vanilla. Use a rubber spatula to fold the dry ingredients into the wet. Fold in the fruit and pour into the pan. Set aside on a sheet tray.

2. In a medium bowl combine the remaining flour, sugar, and cinnamon. Add the butter and using a pastry cutter, two forks, or your fingers, combine the flour with the butter until large crumbs form. Sprinkle crumbs over the batter and place the tray in the oven. Bake for 15 minutes, then rotate and bake for an additional 15 minutes. Continue baking until a cake tester or thin knife comes out clean— the crumbs should be golden brown.

3. Transfer the pan to a wire cooling rack and allow the cake to cool completely. Once cooled, remove from pan and, using a serrated knife, cut into squares. Store in an air-tight container for up to three days.

Just what you need to beat May’s showers, this creamy soup highlights earthy potatoes with an added punch of spring garlic.

In may be May, but a thick fog has recently taken over Chicago, creating chilly mornings, wet afternoons and brisk nights. This velvety soup is the perfect way to savor the fresh flavors of spring — and warm up while waiting for sunshine. A simple combination of new potatoes, garlic and herbs, it makes an easy lunch alongside a chunk of crusty bread. With a delicate flavor, green garlic is simply young garlic that has not yet developed the bulbs commonly seen as garlic. Available in the early spring months, this versatile vegetable is delicious grilled or sautéed whole, and can be added to a variety of dishes for a fragrant taste, stronger than spring onions but more mild than mature garlic.

Potato and green garlic soup, serves four
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 large bunch green garlic, about 8 to 10 garlic plants, trimmed to only the white and light green part and thinly sliced
1 pound new potatoes, cleaned and cut in half
1 cup water
1 bunch thyme
2 bay leaves
1 quart chicken stock
1/2 cup heavy cream
Salt and pepper, to taste

1.  Heat the olive oil in a 6-quart pot over medium heat. Add the garlic and saute for 5 minutes. Add the potatoes, 1 cup water, bay and thyme. Bring to a simmer, cover and cook for 10 minutes. Add the stock and simmer an additional 20 minutes, or until potatoes are soft to the touch. Remove the thyme and bay leaf, and puree using a stick blender or in a stand blender. Do not over process. Strain through a fine sieve and return to pot. Add cream and season to taste with salt and pepper. Simmer until heated through. Top with fresh oil, micro greens or garlic chives and serve. Enjoy!

Surprise! Raid your pantry to create a spur-of-the-moment treat packed full of flavor.

In a restaurant, the staff is a family. Crammed together for long hours in a fast pace, intense environment, they spend weekends, holidays, and special occasions together. And everyone from the big jefe to the dishwasher who has worked for the company for thirty years gets something special on their birthday. Of course, the pastry kitchen is home to scraps of dark chocolate cake or lemon curd from a previous night’s special, so coming up with a birthday surprise is more often a job of mastering leftovers than anything else. In a moment of free time (and a lesson on cake preparation), a lucky manager may receive a fondant wrapped jewel. On a busy day, a loved server may find a bowl of his favorite ice cream appear. But whether it’s a batch of special cookies or a fancy cake, everyone is taken care of.

At home, it’s rare to have these ingredients on hand. There just isn’t any room for the frozen doughs, cakes and fillings that make up a pastry kitchen’s stockpile. So it’s with much more determination that a birthday cake is made at home — the flavor choice is all yours. But, just as in the pastry kitchen, don’t rule out using what you already have. Look around the refrigerator and pantry and get creative. Fruit poaching liquid can be used as a syrup to moisten the cake layers, jam is an instant filling, and crushed toasted nuts make a simple, but beautiful decoration for the outside of the cake (here I’ve used the rhubarb and poaching liquid from last week’s coolers). A little creativity can go a long way, and make the process a fun challenge. So for your next birthday treat, look to your pantry before you begin.

Brown sugar cake with chocolate frosting, makes one 9-inch cake
For the cake:
2 cups cake flour
1 tsp baking powder
1 tsp baking soda
1/2 tsp salt
8 oz butter, softened
1 1/2 cup dark brown sugar
2 tsp vanilla
3 eggs
1 1/2 cup milk
For the frosting:
12 oz butter, softened
7 oz good quality bittersweet chocolate
1 1/4 cup confectioners sugar
2 tsp vanilla
To assemble:
1 cup mashed poached fruit, such as rhubarb or berries, or any flavor jam you prefer
1/2 cup simple syrup, or fruit cooking juice (I used the rhubarb and syrup from my cooler)

1. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit. Butter and sugar a 9″ cake pan. Whisk together the flour, baking powder and soda, and salt in a bowl. In a stand mixer, cream the butter and sugar together on medium speed for five minutes, until fluffy. Add in the eggs one at a time, scraping down the sides after each addition. On low speed, slowly add in the flour in three separate additions. Scrape down the sides to combine completely and add the milk, and vanilla, in two additions. Mix until just smooth, but don’t over mix. Pour the batter evenly into the pan, smooth the top, and bake for 40-45 minutes, or until a toothpick comes out clean from the center. Remove from oven, place on a cooling rack and cool completely.

2. Run a paring knife along the outside of the cake pan to loosen, then gently remove the cake from the pan onto a work surface. Using a long serrated knife, trim the top layer to even out, then cut the cake in half horizontally. Use a pastry brush, coat the inside layer of the bottom piece of the cake with half the syrup. Spread the mashed fruit or jam evenly on top and place this piece of cake on a plate or cake round. Turn the top piece of cake over, so that the inside is upwards, and coat with simple syrup. Lay the syrup side down on top of the mashed fruit or jam, aligning the pieces to get the best fit. Place the cake in the refrigerator to cool while preparing the frosting.

3. Carefully melt the chocolate over a double boiler or in the microwave, making sure not to burn it. In a stand mixer, beat the butter and confectioners sugar until light and fluffy. Add a small amount of the butter mixture into the chocolate and mix with a spatula (this is to temper the butter into the chocolate so the chocolate does not seize when you add it into the butter). Add the chocolate mixture and vanilla into the butter and mix until combined.

4. Remove cake from refrigerator. Use a spatula to coat the cake with icing, first covering sides and then filling in the top. Using a small off-set spatula, create peaks for a messy look or smooth out for a more finished cake. If you smooth out, cover the sides with toasted nuts, coconut or sprinkles, if so desired. Place in the refrigerator to set. Remove fifteen minutes before serving. Enjoy!

With tangy lemon granita and sweet rhubarb soda, this refreshing elixir celebrates one of spring’s first delights.

Like many enthusiastic cooks, I find myself enamored with a new item at the farmer’s market every spring. A few years ago it was dates: Early in the season I was attracted to the crisp texture of raw Khalal dates, and would nibble through half a container before leaving the market. As they softened into cloying mushy jewels, I whipped up earthy date ice cream and added them to cake batter. Another year I couldn’t get enough of the many varieties of Southern Californian persimmons. From crunchy fuyus to soft and smooth hachiyas, my desserts became laced with persimmon custard, mousse and ganache.

But even I am surprised at my newest infatuation. An item I have longed loathed since first cooking it into tart filling at Spago, I suddenly have the tangy taste of rhubarb on my mind. It’s early spring appearance often makes rhubarb a pastry chef’s best friend, who, after a long fruitless winter, is ready for the first signs of flavorful life. But inspired by everything from the rhubarb spiked Commandotroepen cocktail I sipped at Chicago’s Sable to David Rodriguez’s pillowy rhubarb creation at Red Medicine in Los Angeles, the earthy vegetable is quickly becoming my go-to ingredient.

Most commonly used in pie fillings, rhubarb has just as many savory applications as sweet ones. It makes a a wonderful chutney alongside meats and can be shaved into salads for a tangy surprise. Making use of the beautiful cooking liquid that results when poaching rhubarb for tarts or crumbles, this take on a frozen drink can be a wildly tart, refreshing dessert or a brilliant way to liven up your cocktail hour. But rhubarb is only available a short while (from late April through mid-June), departing just as stone fruit and berries start to really ripen, so make sure to grab it while you can.

Rhubarb float, serves 2
For the lemon granita:
2 cups fresh, strained lemon juice
1/2 cup sugar

For the rhubarb syrup:
5 stalks fresh rhubarb, cut into 1/2-inch pieces
1 1/2 cups sugar
1 1/4 cups water
1 orange
1-inch piece ginger, cut into thin slices
1 vanilla bean, pod cut in half and scraped, or 1/1 tablespoon vanilla extract

1 L Soda or tonic water

1. For the granita: Pour a small amount of the lemon juice and the sugar into a small pot and bring to a boil. Combine with the remaining lemon juice and pour into a small container. Freeze.

2. For the rhubarb: Combine the sugar, water, vanilla and ginger in a small sauce pot. Add the zest and juice of the orange. Bring to a boil and add the rhubarb. Cover and reduce to a simmer, cooking for about 5 minutes, until rhubarb is just slightly tender. Remove the rhubarb using a slotted spoon and chill, reserving for pie or tart filling. Strain and chill the liquid separately.

3. To assemble: When lemon liquid is completely frozen, use a fork to scrape or shave the ice. Place back in freezer. Combine 1 cup rhubarb liquid with soda water, and shake carefully to combine. Fill glasses with lemon granita and top with rhubarb soda. Add pieces of rhubarb if desired.

Get ready for sunnier days with this light catchall market salad, topped with a rich poached egg.

With a teasing warm afternoon here and there, and more than a few dreary rainy days, spring certainly feels right around the corner. Nothing celebrates the  upcoming season of asparagus! strawberries! ramps! quite like a stroll-through-the-market salad. Toss in a bit of whatever you fancy, whatever you can find, or whatever you have on hand. Fresh cheese, mushrooms, some prosciutto perhaps — and use up extra eggs by topping the salad with a perfect poached egg. Add a little balsamic and you have just the thing to tide you over until the farmer’s market is flush with the produce you have been dreaming of all winter long.

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Savor your lemons with this Mediterranean staple–the salty, sour taste brightens everything from grilled fish to salads to cocktails.

When the New York Times recently published their DIY Handbook, a little spurt of horray! went through me. A long supporter of saving your veggie scraps for stock, using mushroom soup seconds for pickled delights, and taking the two-day time to hand fold puff pastry, these simple recipes- everything from a corn muffin mix to fresh cheese- go hand-in-hand with my living life for food mentality. So I was excited to try these hallowed writer’s suggestions on the best homemade concoctions, and you can’t go wrong with this preserved lemon recipe.

Like the other dozen or so recipes in the mix, this is a variation from a tried and true home preservation cookbook– specifically the recipe hails from Paula Wolfert’s tome Couscous and Other Good Food From Morocco. A staple of Mediterranean and Middle Eastern cuisine, preserved lemons are often used to fragrance tangines and marinades, in chicken dishes and in salads. Though you can purchase the salty-sour citrus in stores, the homemade variety allows for additional spices such as cinnamon, cardamon or fennel, and you can continually add left-over lemons to the salted lemon juice (just make sure everything is completely covered in liquid). After a few weeks you’ll not only have pickled lemons to julienne into spring salads, coleslaws, and top sautéed fish with, you’ll also have a great lemony brine to add to salad dressings and marinades. So the next time you find yourself with a few extra lemons almost past their prime, save the day with this DIY recipe.

Preserved Lemons, adapted from New York Times D.I.Y. Handbook, makes two-pint jars
7 to 9 medium, organic lemons
1 1/2 cups kosher salt
2 heaping tbsp black peppercorns
4 bay leaves

1.  Scrub  7 to 8 lemons, enough to fit snugly in the two jars. Slice the lemons from the top in half, just to a 1/2-inch from the bottom, and then again the other way, so the lemon is quartered but still attached at one end.  Rub kosher salt all over lemons and reshape back together.

2. Cover the bottom of each jar with 2 tbsp of kosher salt. Fit all the lemons into the two jars, breaking them apart if necessary. Sprinkle each layer with remaining salt.

3. Press the lemons down into jars to release their juices. Add to each jar one tbsp black peppercorns and 2 bay leaves, and any additional spices you may desire. Squeeze the additional 1 to 2 lemons into the jars until juice covers everything. It may be easier to pour the contents of the jar into a bowl, mix thoroughly and then refill the jar, layering the lemons with the brine.

4. Close the jars tightly and place in a cool dark place, shaking the jars every day for 3 to 4 weeks, or until the rinds are tender to the bite. Continue to store in the refrigerator for up to one year.

5. To use: remove a piece of lemon and rinse. Julienne, or thinly slice, lemon rind and add to salads, at the end of cooking (especially good with sautéed hearty greens and seafood), and baked goods. Scoop the pulp (or use the brine) out and add to everything from jams to marinades to purees (or Bloody Marys).

Piping hot, straight out of the oven, the fresh, flaky taste of rich butter and sweet chocolate is worth the hard work croissants take.

Croissants are a true labor of love. A two-day process involving successive folding, rolling and relaxing of the dough,  the simple butter and flour mixture needs a lot of attention to turn into the perfect pastry sidekick for your morning cappuccino. This isn’t an everyday recipe, and enough local bakers produce quality croissants that it’s one of the few items generally acceptable to purchase on a regular basis. But there is something soothing in making this dough every once in a while, and adding it into your repertoire is sure to up your baking ante.

Croissant dough is similar to puff pastry; a yeast-leavened dough is wrapped around butter and folded several times to create layers in a process called lamination. When the dough bakes, the butter melts, creating air between the dough layers, causing the end product to puff up. My first real memory of making puff pastry comes from my time working as a pastry cook at Spago Beverly Hills.  Puff pastry was in high demand- it was regularly used for a savory foie gras tart on the garde manger station, a dessert trio for large parties, and for dessert specials, like a farmer’s market fruit tart with champagne sabayon. That meant that making puff pastry was an important task: At any given time the dough was being made, chilled or rolled out on the bakeshop’s large sheeter- a machine that gently pushed the dough back and forth, making the process of rolling an extra-large batch slightly easier.

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