Daring Bakers Bake a Cake

Daring Bakers Bake a Cake

I was suddenly shaken awake late one night last month. I groggily opened my eyes to three masked figures hunched over me in the dark. Before I could make sense of the situation I was pulled out of bed, down three flights of stairs, and out of my apartment building. A lone van awaited in the dead of night, and a door opened as I was dragged inside. The van sped away and a blindfold was pulled over my face. Excitement filled up inside of me as the van screeched to a halt. Two arms pulled me out of the van and into a building, up stairs and into a room. Suddenly in my hands I felt tools, and my mask was lifted. One hand held a whisk, the other a spatula and I faced a mixing bowl full of egg whites.

“Mix, mix mix,” the women who filled the room cheered. I jumped into action, pulling pans of sugar onto the stove, whipping up whites and folding batter.

“Hurrah,” they all cheered as I garnished off my cake and it was over. I had made it, a Daring Baker I would now be.

Orange Marmalade Cake

A few months ago I came across the Daring Bakers and I’ve thought about this scene ever since. Here was a group of bakers who all participate in a monthly recipe challenge, each posting about their luck or struggles with the recipe. With La Vita Cucinare finally up and fully running, I joined last month with eager anticipation of the challenges to come. And with March fast and furiously at an end, my first challenge is finished and a Daring Baker I have become(sadly without the blindfold)

This month’s challenge was Dorie Greenspan’s Perfect Party Cake, my first Daring Baker challenge and my first Dorie recipe. The cake came out too thin in my half sheet tray, but when the recipe was doubled, became a a nice classic sponge. Butter cream never ceases to amaze me, as the curds of butter and meringue break and then always faithfully come back together, and Dorie’s was a good recipe that I would use again. I tried a variation on the recipe below, orange zest and juice in the cake and a marmalade between the layers, which made for a nice citrus cake, great for a friend’s birthday and as my initiation into Daring Bakers.

PERFECT PARTY CAKE
From Dorie Greenspan’s Baking from My Home to Yours (pages 250-252)

For the Cake
2 ¼ cups cake flour
1 tablespoon baking powder
½ teaspoon salt
1 ¼ cups whole milk or buttermilk (I prefer buttermilk with the lemon)
4 large egg whites
1 ½ cups sugar
2 teaspoons grated lemon zest
1 stick (8 tablespoons or 4 ounces) unsalted butter, at room temperature
½ teaspoon pure lemon extract

For the Buttercream
1 cup sugar
4 large egg whites
3 sticks (12 ounces) unsalted butter, at room temperature
¼ cup fresh lemon juice (from 2 large lemons)
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

For Finishing
2/3 cup seedless raspberry preserves stirred vigorously or warmed gently until spreadable
About 1 ½ cups sweetened shredded coconut

Getting Ready
Centre a rack in the oven and preheat the oven to 350 degrees F. Butter two 9 x 2 inch round cake pans and line the bottom of each pan with a round of buttered parchment or wax paper. Put the pans on a baking sheet.

To Make the Cake
Sift together the flour, baking powder and salt.
Whisk together the milk and egg whites in a medium bowl.
Whisk together the sugar and lemon zest in a mixer bowl or another large bowl and rub them together with your fingers until the sugar is moist and fragrant.
Add the butter and working with the paddle or whisk attachment, or with a hand mixer, beat at medium speed for a full 3 minutes, until the butter and sugar are very light.
Beat in the extract, then add one third of the flour mixture, still beating on medium speed.
Beat in half of the milk-egg mixture, then beat in half of the remaining dry ingredients until incorporated.
Add the rest of the milk and eggs beating until the batter is homogeneous, then add the last of the dry ingredients.
Finally, give the batter a good 2- minute beating to ensure that it is thoroughly mixed and well aerated.
Divide the batter between the two pans and smooth the tops with a rubber spatula.
Bake for 30-35 minutes, or until the cakes are well risen and springy to the touch – a thin knife inserted into the centers should come out clean
Transfer the cakes to cooling racks and cool for about 5 minutes, then run a knife around the sides of the cakes, unfold them and peel off the paper liners.
Invert and cool to room temperature, right side up (the cooled cake layers can be wrapped airtight and stored at room temperature overnight or frozen for up to two months).

To Make the Buttercream
Put the sugar and egg whites in a mixer bowl or another large heatproof bowl, fit the bowl over a plan of simmering water and whisk constantly, keeping the mixture over the heat, until it feels hot to the touch, about 3 minutes.
The sugar should be dissolved, and the mixture will look like shiny marshmallow cream.
Remove the bowl from the heat.
Working with the whisk attachment or with a hand mixer, beat the meringue on medium speed until it is cool, about 5 minutes.
Switch to the paddle attachment if you have one, and add the butter a stick at a time, beating until smooth.
Once all the butter is in, beat in the buttercream on medium-high speed until it is thick and very smooth, 6-10 minutes.
During this time the buttercream may curdle or separate – just keep beating and it will come together again.
On medium speed, gradually beat in more lemon juice, waiting until each addition is absorbed before adding more, and then the vanilla.
You should have a shiny smooth, velvety, pristine white buttercream. Press a piece of plastic against the surface of the buttercream and set aside briefly.

To Assemble the Cake
Using a sharp serrated knife and a gentle sawing motion, slice each layer horizontally in half.
Put one layer cut side up on a cardboard cake round or a cake plate protected by strips of wax or parchment paper.
Spread it with one third of the preserves.
Cover the jam evenly with about one quarter of the buttercream.
Top with another layer, spread with preserves and buttercream and then do the same with a third layer (you’ll have used all the jam and have buttercream leftover).
Place the last layer cut side down on top of the cake and use the remaining buttercream to frost the sides and top.
Press the coconut into the frosting, patting it gently all over the sides and top.

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San Fransisco Dreamin'

San Fransisco Dreaming

Cruising North along the 5, there’s one place on my mind. Down at the end of Market Street, the Ferry Building awaits, alive with the farmer’s market. The all-night drive saves just enough time for a quick nap and then it’s off we go, into the heart of the Bay City. The Ferry Building is the first stop, and my heart jumps a little to be inside this gastronomic mecca.There are gorgeous pistachio macaroons from Miette, a love affair of a little bakery, hearty whiffs of cheese from Cowgirl Creamery, and exotic mushrooms from the Far West Funghi stand. Just outside, the Saturday farmers market bustles, alive with juicy persimmons, musky Andante goats milk cheese, and everything from chicken feet to five different varieties of dried beans. It’s hard not to want to wrap it all up, tuck it into the car, and bring it back to Los Angeles.

miette.jpg

Leaving the farmer’s bustle behind, it’s a short walk along the bay to Fisherman’s Wharf for a steamy, warm sourdough baguette. The crisp air stings as we bite into Boudin’s crunchy bread and begin to walk up one of San Fransisco’s famous hills, towards North Beach. This little Italian section echoes of the Philadelphian Italian Market or New York City’s Little Italy, sealing San Fransisco’s place in my East Coast heart even more. A quick walk through Washington Square Park, past the array of ever present dog walkers, always brings us to Palermo Delicatessen. Sifting through imported dried pastas and olive oil, it’s a lovely sight to see for my Italia obsession.

Straying off our beaten path, we head towards Pacific Heights, per suggestion of a born and bread San Franciscan. On Pine Street, we find the little bakery, Boulangerie Bay Bread. Inside, the tiny shop is packed with customers and its beautiful canneles, buttery tarts, and the most wonderful macarons ever. The canneles are dark and crisp with oh-so-creamy interiors, the macarons, flavored with spicy pumpkin, tart cherry, or salted caramel, melt in your mouth. A new love affair with San Francisco begins at this Boulangerie.

Navigating the windy roads of the city, on a bit of a Boulangerie sugar high, we make our way towards Twin Peaks, exploring another new-for-us area of San Fransisco . A tall climb to the top of these summits, up windy wooden steps built into the hillside, reveals a breathtaking view of the city that has swept my heart. It’s hard not to care for a place that has so much to offer. From a wonderful market, to an Italian mecca, to fresh baked bread, to the softest macarons, every trip to the Golden Gate city brings new adventures and revisits old favorites. Along Route 1, past Big Sur, the scenic route is said to be well worth the extra time, and another visit must be planned soon to explore this path. Unfortunately though, with busy work days and little free time, sometimes all that can be done is some San Fransisco Dreamin’.

cityscape.jpg

Rosemary Salted Caramel Macarons

Bay Bread Boulangerie’s macarons made such an impression, I had to try to recreate them myself. Here I tried a new method, using an Italian meringue(where I usually use a French) and love it. Steeping the cream with rosemary gives these cookies’ filing an earthy flavor, with a salted caramel inspiration all the way from San Fransisco.

Filled

For the Caramel(make the day before to allow caramel to set up):

100g granulated sugar
1 tsp vanilla extract
100 g heavy cream
1/2 tsp maldon salt
70 g butter, chilled and cut into cubes

1. In a small heavy bottomed sauce pot, bring cream to boil and steep with rosemary for up to one hour. Strain.

2. Turn a small heavy bottomed sauce pot on medium heat. Sprinkle half the sugar into pot and allow to caramelize, stirring occasionally to avoid burning. Contiune to add sugar until all is added. Cook to a dark caramel color.

3. While sugar is cooking, reheat cream to just barley simmering.

4. Add vanilla to caramel, then pour in warm cream. The mixture will steam up and may splatter, so be careful.

5. Add the maldon salt and stir until completely combined.

6. Cool caramel to 100 degrees farenheit. Using an immersion blender, add butter until sauce is smooth and glossy. Allow to set up and use as macaron filling.

For the Macarons:

100 g egg whites, room temperature
135 g granulated sugar
135 ground almond meal*
135 confectioner’s sugar
1tsp salt

*I usually get blanched almond meal from baking specialty stores, but this time I used an unblanched meal from Whole Foods. For uncolored macarons, this texture works great!

1. In a food processor,grind the almond meal, confectioner’s sugar, and salt together until very fine. Sift.

2. Place the egg whites in the clean, dry bowl of a standing mixer. Place the sugar in a small heavy bottomed sauce pot, and add a small amount of water to create a quicksand consistency.

3.Place the sugar pot over medium heat. As the mixture begins to boil, start the mixer on low speed and begin to mix whites.

4. Continues to whip the whites to medium peaks. Bring the syrup mixture to 240 Fahrenheit, and in a slow, steady stream add it to the whites, mixing on medium speed. Whip on high until meringue is stiff peaks, then decrease to medium speed until cool.

5. Using a spatula, fold the dry ingredients into the meringue. Do not over mix. When totally combined the batter should be thick, but smooth. When drizzled onto itself, the batter should smooth out, not continue to stay stiff. This is often referred to as “flowing like magna.”

6. Line a sheet tray lined with parchment or a silpat. Place batter in piping bag with a small piping tip(or cut tip off bag evenly) Pipe small 1/2″ circles into rows on tray. Small peaks should settle into the piped circles in a few moments. If the peaks do not subside, the batter is under mixed. Place back into mixing bowl and gently mix a small bit more. Carefully sprinkle each macaron with small amount of maldon salt.

Drying OutMacarons out of the oven

7. Preheat oven to 325 Farenheit. Let macarons sit up to one hour to develop an outer shell.

8. Bake macaroons for 11-15 minutes. When done, the macarons should not look wet in their centers, but have very little color.

9. Allow to cool completely and remove carefully from the sheet tray. Using an offset spatula to gently lift the macarons will help with any minor sticking. Fill with salted caramel filling and enjoy!

Filled

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A Sip of Inspiration

A Sip of Inspiration
Coffee and Cookies

Sitting in the fancy, plush, faux alligator skin chair, I stared down into what would be my first real cup of coffee. Steaming up out of it’s immaculate cup, the aroma tempted me as I pondered if this would be true love or sips of discontent. This was the best coffee I would ever drink, I had been told. The beans had been chosen from all over the world and treated with techniques and temperatures as if they were gold. Every element, from the triple filtered water down to the Japanese porcelain cup, had been thought about. Still, I had my doubts.

I had never been a coffee drinker. Growing up in Germany, family vacations were often visiting the coffee capital of the world, Italia. As my younger sister, barely a preteenager, threw back more espresso and cappuccino then even the most ardent adult coffee drinker would comfortably consume, I snubbed my adolescent nose at the beverage. Even in college, when coffee was the drink of choice to soothe harsh hang overs and pull fellow students through early morning classes, I stuck with other drinks.

And then one night, during a long road trip that began after working a busy evening shift, things changed in my coffee world. Sleepy eyes were drawn by the harsh glowing lights of a small highway gas station, and suddenly an English toffee latte was exactly what I needed. Sipping the overtly sweet and over flavored beverage, I spent the remaining driving hours not only wide awake but also realizing, that I might in fact, like coffee. Coffee has been consumed since the 9th century. Now in the 23rd, I would finally catch up with the trend.

Coffee shops became a thing of excitement. Hours of walking around were rewarded with a vanilla latte. A long day of errands ended sweetly with a mocha with skim milk. Of course straight coffee was out of the question. I had after all started this coffee attraction with an English toffee latte, created with more sugar and flavoring agents then coffee flavor. I needed the sweetness.

Then came the fateful day when I was introduced to my first cup. Sitting in LaMill Coffee Boutique, the new bistro where I would help recreate pastry chef Adrian Vasquez’s desserts, I looked down into the steaming cup of wonder my new bosses placed before me. No sugar, no flavoring powders or mixes, this was the real deal coffee. With one quick movement, I brought the cup to my lips and sipped. This coffee, I realized, I enjoyed quite a lot.

A few days later the coffee boutique opened it’s doors to the public, and this special coffee was unleashed to the world, of Silverlake Boulevard at least. Tucked back in the kitchen, waifs of the coffee aroma filled my pastry space as customers ordered Clover cups brewed to order. Coffee was on my mind as I plated desserts, as I watched barista’s artfully pour steamed milk into cups, and as I sipped lattes after my shifts. Coffee was now everywhere around me.

And so it came down to a new coffee creation. Some espresso added to a chocolate cookie recipe I wanted to try did the trick. A fudgey, rich cookie, these sweets take on a roasted flavor from the espresso and a floral hint from orange zest and juice. The first of many coffee inspirations, my new attraction to coffee is a welcome addition, not only as a beverage but also for recipes alla coffee.

Chocolate Orange Coffee Crackles(revised version of Bon Appetit’s Midnight Crackles)

260 grams unsalted butter, cut into 1/2 inch cubes
235 grams brown sugar
300 grams 64% chocolate
200 grams freshly squeezed orange juice, strained
Zest from 2 oranges
100 grams freshly made espresso(get this from local coffee shop like LaMill)

3 large eggs
450 grams All Purpose flour
30 grams unsweetened cocoa powder
1 tsp baking soda
1/2 tsp salt

1. In a small, heavy bottomed sauce pot, melt butter, sugar and chocolate over low heat until just melted through completely.

2. Pour mixture into bowl of standing mixture with paddle attachment.

3. On low speed, slowly add the espresso, orange juice and eggs until completely combined.

4. Triple sift the dry ingredients together. Slowly add to the batter and mix just until combined.

5. Pour batter onto plastic wrap and cover into ball. The batter will be very wet. Refrigerate at least two hours.

6. Preheat oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit. Remove dough from the fridge and roll into 1″ balls. Place on parchment lined sheet tray and bake for 5 minutes. Turn the tray and continue to bake for 8 minutes. Cool and enjoy.

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Lovin' Linzers

Lovin’ Linzers
Linzers all boxed up

Tucked back into a corner of downtown Weisbaden’s shopping center, the tiny bakery is far from the bustle of nearby shoppers. It is not one of the numerous stands that lines the pedestrian zone, selling piping hot pretzels for fifty pfennings. Nor is it the corner bakery case that offers bright fruit tarts and our favorite, fluffy dampfnoodles, steamed buns with a salty, crispy crust. Far away from the hip clothing stores that entice my teenage eyes with the latest Euro fashions and Spice Girlesque boots, the bakery is saved for trips downtown with my mother. We always travel deeper into the shopping district, near the giant cuckoo clock store and the linen shop where she often buys new table cloths. There, the tiny bakery awaits, full of wonderful poppy seed brotchen, rich apfel strudel, and buttery, jammy, linzer cookies.

It is always at this bakery that I ask for the linzer. Big round cookies, filled with bright raspberry jam and topped with powdered sugar, I rarely leave the cookie in it’s bag long enough for the grease to mark the paper. The cookies are the perfect mix of spicy, sweet and delicious.

Back in the US, several years after my European adolescence, memories of those linzer cookies still connect to shopping trips with my Mother. Thoughts turned to her Valentine’s Day gift, the idea of baking these cookies swirled in my mind. Traditionally made with ground nuts, spices, butter, sugar and eggs, the cookies are a form of the Linzer Torte. Home to Linzer, Austria, the dough that forms both the torte and the cookies is said to date back as far as 1696. As I searched for the perfect recipe, I found many variations from this traditional dough. Each used brown, white, or confectioner’s sugar, a variety of different nuts and a mixture of spices. Some called for chemical leavener’s, other’s did not, and many included variations for the jam filling, including using any kind of store bought flavor. At first I thought traditional:ground almonds with cinnamon and nutmeg, and perhaps Apricot jam, but I needed a recipe. Mulling around with the ratios for linzer’s that I found, I decided finally on one egg to one yolk, and dark muscovado sugar for it’s deep molasses flavor. With a good base linzer cookie recipe created, I decided to play around with the ingredients. Pistachio linzer with cherry jam. Punched into hearts and topped with confectioner’s sugar, these cookies were quite attractive all boxed up and tasted almost as wonderful as the linzer’s I remember eating with my mother in Germany. For Valentine’s Day or any day that needs something special, these Linzer’s are a great way to go.

Happy Valentine’s Day!
Filling the linzers

Filling the linzers

Pistachio Linzer Cookies
1 pound unslated butter, cut into 1/4 inch cubes, room temperature
8 oz dark muscavado sugar*
1 tbsp orange zest(zest into the bowl over the butter to garner all orange oils)
1 egg
1 egg yolk
1 tsp vanilla extract
1 oz honey**
1 tbsp Grand Marnier
1 pound All Purpose flour
1/4 tsp baking soda
1/4 tsp salt
2 star anise
1 pound pistachios, toasted, cooled, and very, finely ground(a food processor works well)
*muscavado sugar is an unrefined, dark brown sugar available at Whole Foods and specialty baking stores
**orange blossom honey is wonderful, but use your favorite honey
1. In the bowl of a standing mixer, use a paddle attachment to cream together the butter, sugar and orange zest on medium speed for five minutes, or until the butter looks fluffy.
2. On low speed, add eggs and vanilla. Scrape down.
3. Add honey and Grand Marnier, mix and scrape down. Combine until incorporated.
4. Using a microplane or fine grater, carefully grate the star anise into the flour. Sift the salt, baking soda, ground star anise and flour together three times. Slowly add the four to the butter mixture and mix until just incorporated.
5. Add the ground pistachios. Mix until combined.
6. Roll the dough into a ball and wrap in plastic wrap. Refrigerate for at least two hours.
7. Preheat the oven to 350 Farenheiut.
8.Divide the dough into four pieces. Spray two pieces of parchment or baking paper with nonstick spray. Moving quickly but carefully, roll the dough between the paper, removing the paper ever other roll on either side so that dough does not stick to the paper. This dough is very wet and difficult to work with when it becomes warm so you must work quickly. If the dough sticks to the paper, place it back in the refrigerator and work with another peice. Roll all four pieces to 1/8 inch, placing each in the refrigerator after rolling.
9. Remove one rolled out sheet of dough and take off top piece of parchment. Spray this parchment again and place on a sheet tray. Working quickly, cut out desired shapes and place on sheet tray, using an off set spatula to help remove cut-out shapes if necessary. Place excess dough back into refrigerator to be rolled out for future use. Cut a second shape into half of the cookies to create an “eye” for the linzers.
10. Bake for 5 minutes, then turn the tray around and bake for an additional 5-8 minutes. Cool the cookies and spread jam on half, creating sandwhiches. Sift confectionar’s sugar on top of sandwhiches and enjoy.
Port Cherry Spread
14 oz dried cherries
10 oz port
2 star anise
2 cardamom pods
1. Toast the spices to release oils.
2. In a heavy bottomed small sauce pot, place the cherries, port and whole spices.
3. Heat on low heat until the liquid is reduced to 1/8.
4. Remove spices. Place cherries in food processor and grind until very fine.
5. Push the pureed cherries through a fine mesh strainer.
6. Spread on linzer cookies.

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Overbaked, undermixed: The challenges of baking

Over-baked, under-mixed: The challenges of baking

Baking is a tricky little art. Reading a recipe seems straightforward enough. Measure ingredients, mix together, and bake. These simple instructions should create the perfect cookie, batter or dough. Mix those ingredients too much (over creaming them) and you are left with lacy, crunchy cookies or an overly, aerated batter. Under-mix the ingredients and you have cake-y cookies and batter with bits of butter and sugar about it. Butter too cold: that dough won’t cream the same. Water not warm: no elasticity in your dough. Misread a recipe, skip over a step, forget an ingredient, and the whole thing may go down; way down into the garbage, a causality of pastry battles. Every element’s handling is vital and a change in each can garner a different result. Of course this means the same recipe could turn out different numerous times, and getting it right often may just be luck. With so many elements and so much to concentrate on, pastry certainly is a tricky art.

Getting over these adversities means being meticulous. Reading a recipe thoroughly before beginning it. Measuring and measuring again every ingredient. Studying text on how ingredients work together and how each should be handled in order to produce the desired result. Working at it, practicing over and over again in order to master the minute skills of art. Trying to understand failures and working to improve recipes in the future. Those without the lucky touch of a pastry chef who seems to always get it right must work at it. The perfect cookies, beautiful bread, and smooth custards will be all the reward needed for the hard work pastry can be.

Of course, even if the elements are right and all the ingredients are accounted for, even then a recipe may fail. A poorly written recipe may be the cause, which means back to the testing board to try again. Was the oven too hot? Were the eggs too cold? Was there enough flour? Should the tart shell be par baked? Should the butter be room temperature? All these details can be vital in perfecting a recipe, and this becomes the focus of those dedicated to pastry and to their recipes. Frustrating as it may be to turn out cakes or candies that are not quite right time and time again, it is these tests that create tried and true recipes and teach the intricacies of the pastry arts. So although it may be difficult, trying at it over and over again is the way to win the pastry battle and create the perfect cookie, cake or dough.

Look forward to more thoroughly tested recipes and pastry battle wins coming soon.

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Oak Glen: Apples bring a little East to the West

Oak Glen: Apples Bring a little East to the West

Traveling east into the San Bernadino Mountains, the palm trees and roaring waves of the Los Angeles coast fade out of memory. In their place, tall voluminous mountains appear. The red leaves and crisp air  transport visitors to this Californian New England country side. Oak Glen Road, spotted with apple orchards and village stores, invites families from all over to pick and buy apples, press fresh apple cider, and purchase an array of homespun wares.

After an unfortunate dry season, u-pick apple picking at Oak Glen’s many orchards is scarce this season. Busy with families everywhere, the many orchards swim with visitors. In every direction, people grab at the trees with tall pokers, trying to reach the highest, just out of reach apples. The village stores consolle apple appitites  with heavy barrels and bags of Spartan, Gala, and Rome Beauties. Hay rides bound through the orchards, carrying laughing children, while mothers by apple butter and cider from the orchard store.

Oak Glen Country Store

At Riley’s Apple Farm(12261 S. Oak Glen Road), families pick through large wooden crates stacked with apples, choosing those perfect for cider. Children wash the apples and turn the large wooden crank that pushes the apples through an old fashioned cider press. The cider is strained and poured into jugs and cups, a refreshing drink and souvenir of the day.

Juicing ApplesMaking Cider

When the sun begins to set, visitors travel further down the winding mountainside to Oak Tree Village(38480 Oak Glen Road.) Here shops offer homemade fudge and treats, traditional Native American and Southwestern leather and turquoise ware, and apple collectibles. Children snack on apple doughnuts as they run around the animal park and go on train rides.  At the Parish Pioneer Apple Ranch(38651 Oak Glen Road), hungry families, tired from a trek through the orchards, enjoy smoked barbecue, apple pie and live music at the village eateries. Although the cold winds of winter bring an end to the apple picking season, the picturesque mountains of the area are enough to bring visitors back for a visit, with some Christmas shopping to be done in the country stores. And fall will come again next year, when apple picking at Oak Glen can bring a little East Coast autumn to sunny California once more.

Apples are abundant as the chilly weather takes over and this Apple Cake is a great way to turn fresh fruit into a warm treat. Served warm, with a scoop of cream cheese ice cream, this moist cake is certain to please.

 Apple Cake

 Apple Cake

3 apples, pink ladies, or any preferred variety
3 oz butter, room temperature

8 oz brown sugar

2 oz granulated sugar

2 eggs

9 oz All Purpose flour

1 teaspoon baking soda

1 teaspoon baking powder

1/2 teaspoon salt

3/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/2 teaspoon ground cardamom 

1 C sour cream

1. Heat the oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit. Butter and sugar the sides and bottom of a 9″ pie pan(a spring form pan with help for easy removal)

2. Peel two apples. Cut the apples into small dice and place them in a heavy bottomed small saucepan. Add just enough water to cover the bottom of the pan and place over medium low heat. Cook until apples are soft( you may have to add a little more water if the water boils off, in order to avoid burning the bottom of the apples.) In a food processor, or with a hand held blender, puree apples into a smooth paste.

3. Cream together the butter and sugars in the bowl of a standing mixer until well combined and slightly fluffy, around 3 minutes.  Add the eggs one at a time, mixing until completely incorporated and scraping down the bowl as needed.

4. Sift the dry ingredients together. Add one third of the dries to the mixing bowl, mix togther, and scrape the bowl to incorporate. Add the apple puree, mix in completely, and add another third of the dry ingredients. Add the sour cream, scrape the bowl down, and add the rest of the dry ingredients, just mixing until the batter is completely combined.

 5. Peel the last apple. Cut the apple into quarters, and using a mandolin, carefully slice the quarters. In the center of the pie pan, fan out the apples in a decorative circle pattern. Carefully pour the batter on top of the apples. Using an offset spatula, spread the cake batter evenly.

6. Bake the cake until the cake does not jiggle when moved and a toothpick comes out cleanly from the center, around 45-50 minutes. Let cool completely on a rack and carefully un-mold the cake. Re-warm to serve.

 

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My Life in France: Life with Julia

My Life in France: Life with Julia

I first met Julia Child in the summer of 2002. I had just graduated high school and was headed to Philadelphia in the fall, where my culinary studies would begin at Drexel Univeristy. My mother, an ardent educator, introduced me into Julia’s kitchen and my eyes went wide. Peering at the piles of cookbooks and utensils, I daydreamed of the day when my kitchen walls would include the outline of where each individual pot and pan should hang apon it, just as Julia’s did. As my mother and I walked through the exhibit at the American History Musuem, showcasing the life and talent of this women, I thought there could be no greater lady. Later I found myself once again face to face with Julia as I began to Master[ing] the Art of French Cooking in my French Cuisine classes in culinary school. Just as Julia’s warmth had leapt from her kitchen, it now leapt from the pages of her book, teaching me the skills neccessary to create classic French cuisine. Although I never actually met the grand lady, her legacy was introduction enough.

In her final work, My Life in France, is a further introduction to Julia and to the grand life she led. Her story begins in the early 1950’s, as Julia moves with her husband, Paul Child, to what she refers to as la belle France. Julia begins her love affair with France and with food, and the book is a whirlwind of the world of Julia’s tastes, sights, and feelings. Reading about her first bites of French cuisine in Rouen is almost comical. That the woman who brought French cuisine to the American cook may have at one point not known a shallot or had a taste for oysters seems absurd, but tasting it for the first time with Julia, the reader sees where this lady’s passion began. The book bounds through her true gastronmic journey, as she studied at Le Courdon Bleu and taught herself  how to really think and cook like a Frenchman. Her drive and unfailling ability to educate herself in any culinary feat is inspiring, and will be sure to get anyone, from the well seasoned chef to those who have never cooked before, into the kitchen.

My Life in France is a journey thourgh the Child’s life but also throughout Euope and the US. Traveling with the Julia and Paul from Paris, to Marseille, to Germany and back to the US, the reader is taught some of the great food lessons Julia had to teach herself. Learning to  cook fish on the Mediterranean, making pie dough and working out the differences in American and French flour, and recreating the atmosphere for baking French bread, the reader is included on many of the trials and tribulations Julia faced in research for her books and in learning her grande cuisine. A rigid and detailed writer, Julia’s acheievements are all the more admirable, as the reader understands with what degree the time and care that went into each of her books, television programs, and recpies.

A memior above all else, My Life in France, is emmaculate in detail, charming, and full of life. Julia recalls dates, times, places, and people in a way that allows the reader to experience them first hand. The reader is transported to a market in Paris buying rabbit or to Provence for dinner with James Beard. A truly grand story of a truly grand lady, the relationships she held most dear are illuminated in the prose. The book is the story of her love affair with Paul Child, who took pictures of Julia de-boning chickens and helped create the books she came to love and the life she led. It tells of Simone Beck, her French sister and co-author, with whom she battled about recipes and created a great masterpeice of a book. Julia’s story is that of her reltaionshop with James Beard, and with famous French food writer Curnonsky, and the many farmers, chef’s, and people who Julia touched and who touched Julia along the way. This prose is one that is enlightening, full of warm, heart felt stories about food and life, and it is a great hit. Although I have never truly met Julia Child, this book makes me feel one giant step closer to feeling as though I have.

My Life in France

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Pastel Aquatica

Although I have seen my fair share of cakes being made, until quite recently I had never assembled a fondant cake myself. Sure I’ve made cakes of many shapes and sizes with all sorts of types of cakes and fillings, but these were generally cream covered. The few fondant cakes I have seen assembled have been covered by master crafter pastry Chefs. Envious of how easily they molded the sugary fondant dough into shapes and over cakes, I decided to try it out for myself for a friends birthday.

First came the decision for the design. An aqua party calls for an aqua cake and my friend’s favorite underwater animal is the octopus, so I decided on a round cake topped with an octopus and sea creatures on the sides. Miss Katzie, my pastry partner in crime, lent her own limited experience with the fondant cakes to my first try and we were off.

First we tackled the frosting. Coating the cake in a thin, smooth layer of butter cream is important as this will allow your fondant to lay smoothly on top of the cake. Using a flat plastic bench scraper works well to smooth and flatten the butter cream in order to create a clean and uniform coat. This also can be easier to manipulate if the cream is slightly firm.

Smoothing out the ButtercreamSmoothing out the Buttercream

Once the butter cream coast was properly applied and the cake was returned to to the refrigerator we tackled the fondant. Adding a small amount of gel color to a white piece, we slowly kneaded the fondant and folded it over itself until the color was completely combined into the mass.Then we continued until all fondant was dyed.

Coloring the Fondant

Using a lightly powder sugar dusted sil pat, we rolled the fondant out evenly, making sure not to roll it too thin. Then we rolled the fondant onto the rolling pin and then slowly laid it from one end of the cake to another.

Rolling out the FondantCovering the Cake

Next was the trickiest part: smoothing out the fondant. Using the heel of our hands we slowly smoothed the top of the cake using a soft rotating motion. Then carefully, with the bottom of our palm we worked from top to bottom to smooth the fondant down along the sides of the cake. This certainly was not as easy as those chef’s make it look. Once the cake was covered, I carefully trimmed the extra fondant with sharp scissors, leaving a1/2 inch border. Then using a sharp exacto knife, I carefully trimmed along the edges. With a few minor mistakes, it certainly wasn’t perfect, but was a good try for a first shot.

Smoothing out the Fondant

Once the cake was covered it was time for decorations. Using a large circle cutter, I made a purple plaque for the top of the cake. Then came the octopus, which was no easy task. All along fondant had seemed so play dough like, but now it was wet or dry when I didn’t want it to be and hard to cut and manipulate. Using a stencil, I tried several times to cut out an octopus shape until I was happy with the results. A few white rolled balls for eyes and the top of our aquatic cake was done.

Cutting out Shapes

The sides continued the underwater theme. Using a star cutter, Miss Katzie made star fish that were indented with a sea shell to give a more realistic look. Green fondant was cut into spiny trees for underwater sea weed. A few yellow balls were pushed into purple fondant and rolled out to make a polka dotted fish, and a crab cutter was used to create the finishing touch.

Working on the Cake

The cake was fairly moist and were merely laid the decorations around the sides of the cake, trying to cover any tears or holes we initially made covering the cake. Although it could have become the kind of project we just kept adding things to, pinching and prodding at the fondant, we found the line when we had to stop. In the end I was quite happy with my first try at fondant and will certainly tackle the sugary substance again. Covering the cake was definitely the hardest part, so practicing on smaller cakes or even plastic wrapped Styrofoam may help. And my decorations were fairly simple. The harder the decorations become, the more difficult the challenge, and next time I will definitely put myself to the challenge. Once is not enough for a cake ala fondant.

Pastel Aquatica

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A Photo Day in Vegas: Chocolates and the Strip

A Day In Vegas: Chocolates and the Strip

The Vegas Strip

The Vegas Strip

Elaborate Cakes

Elaborate Cakes line the Halls of the glorious Wynn

 

Chocolates at the Wynn

Pastries at the Wynn

Pastries and Chocolates at The Wynn Patisserie

Macron Tree

Macron Tree at the Wynn

Blue Cheese Crusted Steak

Seafood Pealla

Dinner at Spago Las Vegas: Blue Cheese Encrusted Steak and Seafood Pealla

Chocolates at VosgesChocolates at Vosges

Vosges Chocolate Shop at Caesars Palace

Fountain at Caesars Palace

Caesars Palace Fountain

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Presidential Pastries

This month I pushed myself to find the time to finally finish, “All the President’s Pastries,” by Roland Mesnier. I met Mesnier at a sugar demonstration several months ago, and found him both truly talented and wonderfully intriguing. After the eye opening class into the world of pulled sugar, I picked up both his books: “Dessert University,” an exploration of the pastry basics, and “All the President’s Pastries,” which chronicles his life, including a detailed account of the twenty five years Mesnier spent as the White House pastry chef. Having spent several years of my own childhood in Washington, DC, I was equally intrigued by the life of Mesnier as the secret spot sweets hold to the First Family, and began to eagerly read into the story of the White House pastry chef.

Roland Mesnier, a tall, round French man, is in person a truly jovial sort, and the pleasant energy he carries comes across in the pages of his book. His rags to riches story is just as interesting, if not more so, as the time he spent creating elaborately plated desserts for the world’s leaders. There is a certain romanticism about Mesnier’s early childhood, growing up in the Comte region of France and entering his apprenticeship at age 14, to learn pastry arts like his brother. Reading about the Old World way, where a young pastry cook is taught by his chef in return for housing and a promise of work, Mesnier makes me feel a nostalgia for something I never knew myself. And he brings you along as he continues to learn and grow in some of the great hotels, from London’s Savoy to the Princess in Bermuda. His story is one to admire.

Mesnier’s story comes to America as his experience as a chef in Virginia, at the Homestead, and then he begins the tale of the Presidential sweets. For the second half of the book the focus shifts away from Mesnier and details vividly the First Families, their distinct idiosyncrasies towards the ending of the meal, and the many galas, parties, and dinners Mesnier was responsible for creating elaborately constructed desserts for. He shares with the reader his personal experience of the 25 years he spent as White House pastry chef, from creating birthday cakes for many members of five different First Families to tearing away chocolate chip cookies from allergic Bill Clinton.

As the story turns to tales of White House desserts, parties, and treats, the focus becomes slightly cloudy. In many sections, Mesnier jumps from one idea to the next in an almost irrational manner, so that in one sentence you are reading about Hilary Clinton’s team of women, coined Hillaryland, and in the next about an orange sorbet Mesnier molded for a state dinner. The facts are quite interesting, but often the ordering and way in which they are presented makes the book become a hard read.

“All the President’s Pastries,” ends quite nicely, with Roland Mesnier returning from retirement to help out the White House once more. The book tells a truly interesting story about an the life of an interesting chef and the lives of five of our nations First Families. The pastries and desserts that Mesnier created at the White House are captivating, both in prose as well as the pictures included throughout the book. “All the President’s Pastries,” proves another good read.

All The President’s Pastries

All the President’s Pasteries

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